Reviving the Tradition of Hairwork, Preserving Heritage and Artistry by Diane Irby
INTRODUCTION
Across time, numerous artistic practices have waxed and waned, often eclipsed by the march of progress and shifting societal values. One such craft, known as hairwork, occupies a distinctive niche in our American cultural legacy. The deliberate manipulation of human hair into intricate designs and adornments, though nearly forgotten, has a rich historical significance that transcends time and connects us to past generations. A revival of the dying art of hairwork offers the potential to engender a positive cultural impact by celebrating and preserving our collective heritage while offering a sustainable and ethical method for artistic expression. By examining the reasons hairwork remains largely unrecognized as a valuable artifact and an important part of American cultural heritage, we can develop approaches to confronting obstacles and countering misconceptions.
HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE
Woven throughout the tapestry of human history, hairwork’s roots stretch back to ancient civilizations. However, before its decline into obscurity at the outset of World War I, hairwork reached a peak in popularity during the mid-to-late nineteenth century, where it often served as not only a poignant expression of sentimentality, mourning, or commemoration, but sometimes also as simply an artistic, decorative, or fashion statement. The distinctiveness of hairwork as a craft is derived from its corporeal material as well as its particular processes. Hair was meticulously entwined into elaborate plaits and patterns, coiled into shapes, pasted onto palettes, and mixed with pigments, transforming it into all manner of mementos, jewelry, and decorative objects. Whether created to honor familial ties, friendship, or romance, memorialize the departed, observe a rite of passage, adorn the body, or as domestic décor, these artifacts serve as an indispensable conduit between the past and present.
PRESERVATION OF CULTURAL HERITAGE
Reviving the craft of hairwork allows us to preserve an important part of our cultural heritage. The intricate motifs and designs created with hair serve as a portal to our past, offering glimpses into the social, cultural, and emotional landscape of our shared histories. By embracing this once venerable art form, we can ensure that the knowledge, techniques, lore, and narratives associated with hairwork are not lost to time. Providing a tangible link to our progenitors, a revival of hairwork would help to nurture a deeper appreciation for the customs and traditions that have shaped our collective identity.
ARTISTIC EXPRESSION AND INDIVIDUALITY
Hairwork provides a unique and fascinating form of artistic expression. Beyond its nostalgic allure, it offers endless possibilities for creativity and innovation. The resurgence of hairwork heralds an era of exploration and self-expression, presenting practitioners with the opportunity to delve into the labyrinthine patterns and designs inherent in this medium. Furthermore, each strand of hair, possessing its own distinct qualities, allows artisans of hairwork to craft bespoke pieces that uniquely encapsulate the essence of their subjects.
SUSTAINABILITY AND ETHICAL CONSIDERATIONS
In a time when we are more focused on sustainability and ethical practices than ever before, hairwork re-emerges as a beacon of eco-conscious creativity. Eschewing materials that deplete finite resources or exploit wildlife, hairwork champions the utilization of a renewable resource: human hair. Ethically sourced, this natural byproduct mitigates the environmental toll associated with conventional materials. Thus, the revival of this endangered craft not only fosters artistic endeavor but also champions a sustainable ethos, minimizing our ecological footprint in the pursuit of artistic expression.
EXAMINING POSSIBLE REASONS HAIRWORK REMAINS LARGELY UNRECOGNIZED AS A VALUABLE ARTIFACT AND IMPORTANT PART OF AMERICAN CULTURAL HERITAGE
It is not difficult to rationalize how hairwork began to fall out of favor with the outbreak of World War I. From economic hardships, a global pandemic, personal efforts shifted more toward patriotic duties and away from leisure time activities, to the vast changes in death and mourning culture over the previous decades, new theories about hygiene, and emerging trends in hairstyles, understandably, the demand for hairwork dwindled. But how could something that was once so wildly popular be all but completely forgotten now? And why has it gone unrecognized as a significant contribution to American cultural heritage?
It is reasonable to infer that a variety of factors led to hairwork’s decline into obscurity. These factors include its close association with feminine identity and expression, which, in the context of modern feminism, may also be seen as frivolous and emblematic of oppression. Additionally, there may not be a contemporary consensus as to whether hairwork constitutes having worth, in an artistic sense. Likewise, the effects of modernization and globalization have had a profound impact on the preservation and practice of not only hairwork but traditional folk arts around the world. Moreover, hairwork’s perceived narrow focus on individual narratives, as well as its disconnect from nineteenth-century sentiment, particularly its association with the acknowledgment of mortality, including mourning practices, may also contribute to its unsettling nature in contemporary sensibilities.
HAIRWORK’S ASSOCIATION TO FEMININITY
Historically, activities and crafts associated with women have often been undervalued or marginalized in mainstream historical narratives. Since hairwork was primarily practiced by women in the mid-to-late nineteenth century, it may have been overlooked or dismissed as a domestic craft without significant cultural or historical importance. Likewise, in this period, societal norms and expectations heavily dictated gender roles, emphasizing the separation of spheres: men were expected to fulfill public roles, while women were confined to the private domestic sphere. Hairwork was deemed a socially acceptable craft for middle-class women, allowing them to engage in a creative, sentimental activity that was considered appropriate for their gender. Creating hairwork required patience, skill, and artistic sensibility, qualities that were often associated with feminine virtues. Women were responsible for preserving family memories and keeping sentimental connections alive, and the creation of hairwork became an extension of this role. Hairwork jewelry and hair wreaths displayed in the home served as conversation pieces and as signifiers of familial affection.
Despite its close association with femininity, it is important to note that not all women participated in creating hairwork. Hairwork was a craft predominantly practiced by middle-class white women, who were privileged to be afforded the time it took to create. Likewise, some hairwork was created by professional artisans, both male and female, who were highly skilled in the craft. While creating hairwork primarily aligned with mid-to-late nineteenth-century ideals of femininity, it should not be assumed that all women in the era engaged in this activity, nor that those who did were necessarily conforming to oppressive social expectations of femininity.
Indeed, household crafts offered women avenues for self-expression. Particularly in the American Civil War era, marked by high mortality rates, intimate crafts like hairwork served as a therapeutic outlet, aiding women and their families in navigating grief during the mourning process. Moreover, participation in craft activities fostered social interactions outside the confines of the home, allowing women to establish supportive networks among peers. Showcasing their creations at local fairs and charity bazaars amplified women's societal influence as contributors to the arts and as active members in community and religious spheres. Engaging in crafts also facilitated skill acquisition and enabled women to create their own personal property. Furthermore, hairwork, along with other popular crafts at the time, which utilized found natural materials and objects helped to increase women’s involvement in the natural sciences.
IS IT ART?
Relying on imagination and personal inspiration without support from the established art world, women took an experimental approach to establishing methods of incorporating these unconventional mediums into their artistic practices, many of which were later adopted by twentieth-century artists and are still used today. In considering hairwork’s status as art, we can refer to the insights of influential philosophers of aesthetics, such as Collingwood and Kant, who grappled with defining the essence of art. According to their principles, some of the hairwork created by women in the home does indeed warrant recognition as fine art. Appropriately, many hairwork pieces of all varieties can be found today in museum collections, including esteemed institutions such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art, right where they belong. Unlike routine domestic tasks, crafts like hairwork provided women with tangible opportunities to make their mark on the world.
THE EFFECTS OF MODERNIZATION AND GLOBALIZATION
Modernization and globalization have had a profound impact on the preservation and practice of traditional folk arts around the world, including hairwork. On one hand, these forces have provided visibility of these art forms. The rise of the Internet, international travel, and mass media has allowed traditional artists to share their work with a global audience, leading to greater appreciation and recognition. Additionally, cultural exchange between regions and countries has flourished, resulting in the fusion of traditional folk arts with elements from other cultures, contributing to innovative and hybrid art forms.
However, along with these positive developments, there are also challenges to the preservation of traditional folk arts. Commercialization is one such challenge, as traditional art forms are often marketed for a global market. While this can provide economic opportunities for artists and communities, it can also undermine the authenticity of art as it adapts to meet commercial demands. Furthermore, globalization can sometimes overpower or marginalize historical crafts and traditional art forms in favor of those more popular and commercially viable. It is evident that the impact of modernization and globalization on traditional folk arts is a complex interplay of both opportunities and challenges, with the future of these cultural treasures depending on how societies and individuals navigate this evolving landscape.
NARROW FOCUS ON INDIVIDUAL STORIES
The focus of hairwork on individual stories and personal connections may have contributed to its limited recognition as a cultural artifact. Unlike other forms of art or craft that may have broader themes or messages, hairwork, by its nature, often represents individual stories and familial connections. While these personal narratives imbued hairwork with deep emotional significance for those involved, they may have limited its appeal to a wider audience, who may perceive it as too niche or focused on individual sentiment rather than broader cultural themes. This narrow focus on personal sentimentality may lead some to overlook hairwork’s broader cultural significance as artifacts reflecting mourning practices, artistic expression, and social customs of the time. As such, though some hairwork can be found in museums and archival collections, generally speaking, hairwork has not always been systematically collected or preserved, further contributing to its oversight as a valuable artifact.
On a positive note, a more recent trend among historians to uncover and bring to light the lived experiences of individuals belonging to marginalized groups, including women, has taken hold. This shift in how historical narratives are presented has become quite popular in this age of social and cultural awareness, especially when such narratives can be conveyed through a modern lens, such as – to be quite literal - via short-form video. In the context of hairwork: as objects, they provide an excellent starting point for introducing the type of personal narratives that help deepen our understanding of historical realities; as an art form, it provides a palpable way to connect to those stories and who we are as individuals through an experience shared across time.
THE DETACHMENT OF HAIRWORK FROM ITS HISTORICAL CONTEXT
The detachment of hairwork from its cultural and historical context further complicates its recognition and appreciation in modern times. In the nineteenth century, hairwork served as a tangible expression of sentimentality, an aesthetic tool that served to articulate moral values and ideals, as well as remembrance in a society where death was a more visible and pervasive aspect of daily life. However, as attitudes shifted over time, and with death becoming increasingly medicalized and removed from the everyday experience, the practice of creating intricate hair tokens and memorials may seem silly, unsettling, or even morbid to contemporary sensibilities. Without an understanding of the cultural and social context in which hairwork thrived, it becomes difficult for modern audiences to appreciate its significance and value as a form of artistic expression and cultural heritage.
CONCLUSION
Overall, the lack of acknowledgment of hairwork as a valuable artifact and important part of American cultural heritage is multifaceted and stems from a combination of historical biases, contemporary sensibilities, and institutional practices. Efforts to raise awareness, provide education, and promote the preservation and interpretation of hairwork as cultural artifacts can help address this oversight and ensure their recognition and appreciation in the broader cultural landscape moving forward. The revival of the traditional art of hairwork offers an opportunity to reclaim and celebrate an important aspect of our American cultural heritage. By recognizing and preserving the craftsmanship, cultural significance, and artistic merit of hairwork, we can honor the contributions of past artisans and ensure that this unique tradition continues to be valued and appreciated for generations to come. Through education, outreach, and a renewed appreciation for its historical and cultural context, we can elevate hairwork from obscurity and affirm its rightful place as a cherished part of American heritage.
Diane Irby, 2024
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